• 1/4 DIN Size
• VTEC Controller allows setting of VTEC transition point anywhere from 2000 to 8500 rpms, with 100 rpm resolution
• 8-Step Simple Fuel Controller allows ±30% adjustment of fuel delivery (with 1% resolution) at 1000 rpm increments from 1000-8000 rpms.
• Realtime RPM display
• Realtime vehicle speed display (km/hr)
• Adjustable RPM alert (shift warning)
• Speed Limiter Bypass (really only useful in Japan, where top speed is limited to around 112mph on most cars)

• Pressing and holding the mode button for a few seconds (until you hear a beep) changes between the modes
• Pressing the mode button quickly gets you into an 'edit mode' for 1. & 2. there is no edit mode for 3.

Mode 1 - SFC

Mode 2 - VTC

* Be careful, because if you hit the mode button while the display is in mode 2, and your engine is at any rpm besides idle, the VTEC x-over point will instantly be set to whatever rpm the engine happened to be at. So if you're loafing along at 2500 rpms in 5th (~50mph) and you bump the button, you will have mistakenly reset your vtec transition point to 2500 rpms.

Mode 3 - Speed

• You've installed stereo or alarm equipment in the past
• You don't mind cutting wires in the factory wiring harness. This one sort of gave me the willies, but I haven't had any problems
• You're handy with a crimp tool, and you have a relatively good quality crimping tool available to you. I had to buy a better one from Pep Boys. The Radio Shack crimpers that I had really sucked and would not properly crimp the connectors to the freshly cut ECU wires.
• You can read Japanese. The manual comes printed only in Japanese. But the diagram below actually tells you all you need to know.

• Pop off the passenger side kick panel
• In the upper right corner of the floorboard, you will see a tab of sheet metal which holds the carpeting in place. Pull the carpeting back from here and fold it back at an angle towards the center and rear of the car.
• At this point the ECU should be exposed - actually, the piece of sheetmetal that the ECUs are mounted to will be exposed. The ECU mounting board is held in place by four 10mm nuts. Using a 10mm socket and an extension, carefully remove these nuts. Removing the nuts is easy, but it's a little tricky when you want to put them back on later.
• Once these nuts are off, carefully lift the ECU assembly off of the 4 bolts that are holding it in place. Lift from the bottom first, and while lifting it out of place, detach all of the wiring harnesses that are connected. Place the ECU assembly somewhere safe and out of the way while you work on the wiring harness.

The three harnesses you will be crimping into
(View of the passenger footwell)
• Using the diagram above, make the proper connections from the factory ECU harness to the Field SFC-VTEC harness

This is what the mess of wires will look like...
• Make sure all the crimps and connections are sound, then reconnect the factory wiring harnesses to the ECU, and bolt the ECU back in place. Be sure to connect the black wire on the SFC-VTEC harness to a proper ground

  I grounded the SFC-VTEC harness to this bolt which you will find under the passenger's kick panel	With all the crimps performed, plug the 3 ECM connectors back into the ECM

• Put the carpeting back in place and replace the passenger side kick panel. You may have to play around with the rubber trim to get it to fit properly.
• Using the diagram above, set the dip switches on the back of the Field SFC-VTEC accordingly. They should be up-down-up-down-Clip the SFC-VTEC to it's wiring harness and take the car for a test spin to make sure it works.
• When you determine that the unit is working properly, then you can permanently mount the SFC VTEC unit if you like. I haven't mounted mine yet, but perhaps you can put it in the DIN slot beneath the radio. So far my main concern with putting it there is that the front panel illumination of the SFC-VTEC is too bright at night, but gets washed out in bright sunlight.

The installation was cake.  I have done a lot of stereo installs
and stuff and this thing was the easiest electronic component I
have ever put in a car -- easier than installing my Valentine1
with the remote display!

Everything you need comes with the unit, which is packaged very
nicely.  Tools required are a wire cutter/striper, crimper or
a needle-nosed plier, and a 10mm ratchet to get to the ECM under
the passenger-side footrest.  I recommend owning the Prelude 
Electronic Troubleshooting Manual from Helm in order to correctly
reference the necessary wires from the ECM, but this is not
necessary.  

All of the manuals are in Japanese, but I was able to extract enough
info to figure everything out.  I received a seperate guide outside
of the box that had a little English in it regarding the connections.
The entire install took about 30 minutes.

The unit has three modes: SFC, VTEC, and speed.

In SFC mode, you can adjust the fuel by 1% increments between +-30%
of the nominal value at every 1000 rpms.

In VTEC mode, you can adjust the VTEC "Hi-Cam" point by 100 rpm 
increments and also set a shift indicator point as well.

While driving, the modes represent a different display:

In SFC and VTEC mode, the rpms are displayed on the unit.  In speed mode
the speed is displayed (in km/h).

In all modes an LED representing "Hi-Cam" VTEC point lights up at the 
desired VTEC point, and an audible "beep" sounds at the desired shift
point.

Another great feature is the ability to turn it off on the fly, allowing
the standard ECM settings to resume.

A note:  The engine speed is displayed according to the digital
signal from the ECM.  Thes value is a little under the value displayed
on the tach.  I assume that this is because of error in the analog 
conversion on the tach, just as the speedometer reads values a little
higher than actual.  At startup idle, the unit displays 1000, while 
the tach displays around 1100 or so.  At the redline on the tach (7400),
the unit actually reads 7100.  I do not know which is actually correct,
but I believe the Field unit more than the tach dial.

Also, the display is very bright and easy to see at night, but impossible 
during the day.  I couldn't even see that it was on as I was driving to work 
this morning.  That could have been much improved.