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Installation

Installation

You will first need to loosen the lugnuts, jack the car, and support it with jackstands. Then, remove the wheels.

Front:


Ingalls Front Kit
  1. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt/bracket so you have a bit of slack to work with in moving the brake hose around.

    Front Spindle Bolt Locations

  2. There are 2 spindle bolts that we will be working with. Remove the top bolt by loosening the bolt with the 19mm socket. You shouldn't need to hold the nut in place while loosening the bolt. The torque spec on this is just over 100 ft./lbs., and since the bolt may be a little frozen, it will take a bit of effort to loosen it. Once the nut is off, the bolt should slide out with a minimum of effort (give it a little whack with a hammer if it's stubborn).

    OEM Bolt vs. Ingalls Kit

  3. Slide the notched washer over the camber bolt. The notch should be facing the hole that you're going to slide the bolt through, since it's going to sit in there when you tighten it. Now, slide the camber bolt into the hole you just removed the factory bolt from (it goes in very easily).
  4. Thread the supplied nut onto the camber bolt. You will need an 18mm socket and 15mm socket to further thread the nut onto the bolt. Don't tighten this bolt yet - just tighten it enough so it doesn't move around too much. If you're going for maximum negative camber you're going to want to have the arrow on the bolt head pointing parallel to the ground and towards from the car.
  5. Since I only installed one camber bolt, you will need to follow the supplied instructions if you're planning on installing 2 bolts. Otherwise, for one bolt, loosen the bottom spindle bolt enough so you can adjust the camber (the hub assembly will be able to wiggle).
  6. Now you're going to set the camber. It was helpful for me to be able to brace myself against my garage wall while doing this, or else you may need a helper. Push the top of the brake rotor hard, so that you're at maximum negative camber. While applying this pressure, you will need to tighten the bottom spindle bolt so the camber doesn't change when you remove pressure. It does not yet need to be torqued, but just tight enough to eliminate movement.
  7. With the bottom bolt tight, tighten the top bolt. You will want to tighten the nut, not the bolt to as to keep the arrow on the bolt head pointing in - keep the bolt motionless.
  8. Torque the top and bottom bolts to their specs (I added a few ft/lbs to the top bolt). Again, for the top bolt, tighten the nut while holding the bolt motionless. For the bottom, the nut shouldn't move while you tighten the bolt. The top torque spec is 100 ft./lbs. and the bottom is 101 ft./lbs.
  9. Reinstall the brake hose mounting bolt/bracket.

    Front Kit Installed

  10. Repeat this process for the other side.

Rear:


Ingalls Rear Kit
  1. Remove the bolt holding the ABS sensor wire to the arm.

    Front Bolt Locations

  2. Use the 17mm socket to loosen and remove the bolt attaching the arm to the hub assembly. The torque spec is 43 ft./lbs., so it should be relatively easy to break loose. The hub assembly is putting quite a bit of force on this bolt. When you remove it, the top of the hub is going to "pop" away from the car. To avoid damage to the bolt threads, it is a good idea to pull up on the bottom of the brake rotor to reduce this force while cranking this bolt out.
  3. Let the hub assembly hang freely. Use the 6" extension on the same socket to remove the 2 bolts holding the arm to the chassis. The torque spec on these bolts is the same.

    OEM Arm vs. Ingalls Kit

  4. Assemble the camber correction kit. The two 22mm "set" nuts go on each side of the threaded stud. Then, the arm ends screw into each side. Since I was making a minor correction from the stock camber, I tried to keep the stud threads relatively equal on both sides while keeping the overall length about the same as the stock arm. You need to guess on the length, as it will need to be adjusted during the alignment process.
  5. The installation of the camber kit is the opposite of the removal of the stock arm: install the 2 bolts through the arm into the chassis and torque them to their 43 ft./lb. spec.
  6. Rotate the camber arm down a bit. You will now need to pull up on the bottom of the brake rotor with quite a lot of force in order to align the bolt holes in the camber arm with the hub assembly bolt sleeve. While doing this, you will need to slide the bolt though the holes completely.
  7. Tighten and torque this bolt to its 43 ft./lb. spec.
  8. Tighten the camber arm "set" nuts with the 22mm open ended wrench. These nuts need to be tightened at the camber arm ends (ie. - away from the center of the threaded stud) to prevent the camber from changing while driving.
  9. Install the ABS sensor wire brackets by placing the notch through one hole in the camber arm and threading the bolt into the nut on the other hole. This is a bit of a pain.

    Rear Kit Installed

  10. Repeat this process for the other side.
Reinstall the wheels and torque the lug nuts to their 80 ft./lb. specs. You will now need to get a four wheel alignment to adjust the front toe as well as the rear toe and camber.

Copyright 2002, Temple of VTEC



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Subject Thread Originator Replies Last Post
  Very thorough review!
jes98gsr 1
  regarding rsx camber article
honaccurate corp 1
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