From: jmcnulty@dpsc.dla.mil
For those who may be experiencing a noise/vibration which seems to come from the moonroof, try this - the cover which conceals the screws which mount the rearview mirror to the roof might be the culprit, especially in colder weather and at higher RPMs. Vibrations occur between the cover and the interior roof lining.

From: Shawn P. Church (Shawn_P_Church@ccm.ch.intel.com)
About 6 months after I got my car ('94 GS-R coupe), the sunroof developed a horrible rattle when open whenever I went over a bump, even small ones. I complained to the dealer and they said that this was a common problem. It turns out there is a thin plastic or metal bracket back inside the assembly (back in the roof somewhere, because I tightened everything I could see) that apparently comes loose or was improperly mounted. It took them less than an hour and I was back on the road with a tight, quiet sunroof. After 20K+ miles, it still is quiet and only makes noise when open during very large impacts. Other sources of noise from the roof appear to be the trim around the sunroof vibrating against the sunshade and the sun visors vibrating against the headliner.

From: Bob Gutierrez (Bob_Gutierrez-G10673@email.mot.com)
Thanks to all of you that sent a reply to my question on a suitable bike rack for my '94 Integra LS coupe. I received 8 replies in all. For the record: Yakima racks are better than Thule but the roof racks are really not the way to go. I purchased a Draw-Tite 1-1/4" receiver style hitch from 1-800-HITCH-IT (cheaper than local dealer). I installed this hitch, into the existing holes, in roughly 15 minutes. Needless to say I'm very pleased with the results.

I also looked around for a suitable 2-bike rack and ended up with the "Slider 2250" because I liked its construction (over Graber and Rhode Gear) and it has a means of locking the bikes to the rack and rack to the hitch. However, with a little motivation and a couple of wrenches the rack can be taken apart (with bikes attached) and removed. Therefore, I purchased a cable that I can run through the hitch (nice welded loops are available) and the bikes. One note: the spacing on the bike rack holes prevent maximum insertion into the hitch and I will probably cut off ü1/4" from the rack insertion end for a more custom fit (even though it may not really be necessary).

• Window rattles when partially down, especially when you close the door.
• Window slow to roll down on some 3-door Integras. See Technical Service Bulletins
• headlight area collects snow.
• Trunk light sometimes misbehaves.
• Sunroof switch is in a bad place.
• Stock Michelins XGT-V4 on the GS-R are only mediocre on dry or wet. I personally haven't had any experience with them in snow, slush, ice, etc..
• There has been some reports of paint bubbling on the rear hatchback where you would push down to close the hatch. It seems like it is caused by the force of pushing the hatch down. Some recommendations to avoid this include: using the glass to close it; use the sides to push down.
• Blind spots take a little getting used to. If someone is still having problems, may I suggest one of those stick on little curved mirrors that mount to the side mirrors. My friend has one and it worked pretty well. You should still always head check though. Check the back of Car and Driver for how to order it.
• Brakes don't have a very good feel to them compared to some other sporty cars. They are a little too soft. Has anybody replaced the brake lines with some aftermarket metal brake lines to try to stiffen up the feel of the brakes?
• Lots of torque steer when accelerating hard from a stand still and turning at the same time (like as in pulling out of a parking lot).

From: Joseph P. McNulty (paa2587@dpsc.dla.mil)
Since I bought the car, there has been a clatter/knocking coming from the engine compartment, which is distinct from the subtle clicking from the fuel injectors. At the extreme, it can be likened to slight piston slapping. The salesman informed me that it was normal, so I let it go. I have been back twice to the dealership asking them to investigate the problem, as it has gotten progressively louder since then (24,000 miles later), and is worse during cold weather. It is at its worst from initial start-up to about 10 minutes into a trip. The service personnel have yet to find anything wrong - it is really annoying, and I have to turn up the radio to drown it out. Of course, the longer the car runs, the less the sound can be heard. My guess is that it is due to too much free play with a component of the valve train or with one of the engine bearings. Anyone else experience or heard anything regarding this?

The '94 three door Integras has a service bulletin on windows that are slow to go up or are getting stuck. Apparently, the rubber siding is tight on the glass and may cause it to get stuck. The dealer should fix this problem for you.

From: Tim Kelly (timke@colorbus.com)
I have the same problems with my 94 GS-R. It got so bad that the auto down feature thought the window was down all the way because of the excessive current draw. I actually had to into the door and adjust the bolts that hold the regulators. Dealer did it once but it reappeared only 4 months later. Gets really bad in the hot weather, too. I've just gotten really good at removing the door panel and adjusting them myself. Sealer still says there's no solution because they think it's the tint on my windows.

From: dwolsten@math.utk.edu
I've been seeing a lot of messages about fog lights in the past couple of months. I finally purchased a set for my '94 Integra LS. They were "Blazer" brand for about $40 from Wal-Mart (yup); they're small (2" diameter) projector-beam type lamps. As for installation, I mounted them in the factory locations. The procedure consisted of removing the front bumper, cutting out the panels in the factory foglight locations, and inventing a bracket to attach the fog lights to some hardware attached to the backside of the bumper. The adhesive strips or bolt-mounting methods included in these aftermarket lights do not work. Where they are, they look pretty nice; they don't fill up the entire hole like the factory ones, but they look fine to me. Next, I had to wire them up. I threw out most of the wire included with the lights and used 14-gauge wire. I had to find a couple of body-grounding points on the car's frame, and run some wire from each lamp along existing harnesses to the fog light connector that Acura provided, located behind the left headlamp assembly. This single-terminal wire terminates in a similar connector behind the left kickpanel inside the passenger compartment. Then I had to run wire from that to the center console where my switch was located. I thought the included switch was pretty cheap (and don't use that stupid dash-mount panel they give you for it!), so I got my own better-quality illuminated 12V power switch. I had to cut a hole in one of the factory cut-outs next to the parking brake handle to mount it in. Then one last wire runs from the switch to the under-dash fuse box, where it plugs into option connector #2 (I think). This option connector requires a fuse in fuse slot #17 (I think; check the service manual--you should not be attempting this kind of job without one), so I put in a 15A one as recommended by the foglamp manufacturer (but I didn't use their cheap in-line one). I plan to redo a few connect- ions with genuine Acura connectors, but other than that I'm pretty happy with my foglamps. The lamps themselves seem to be of good quality, and they use standard 37.5W halogen bulbs. I didn't care for the included wiring stuff, though (I guess they didn't think most people would have option connectors on their fuse box, or a special location for a factory foglight system switch), so I used my own. Overall, the total setup cost me about $45, compared to boatloads of cash for the factory lights.

From: LAD1466@aol.com
I have noticed this noise in several Integras I have driven. I currently have a 1995 GS-R. I purchased some foam rubber from a fabric store and stuffed it behind the door panel. There is a plastic lining inside and a bunch of wires which buzz from the speakers. The foam seems to have stabilized everything and I am hearing no more noises.

From: Stan Woo (spikeit@sandspit.incog.com)
Have them on my 94 GS-R. Got it from A&H for a far lower price than any of the dealers in the Bay Area. Instructions included. Installation is relatively simple but did take me over 8 hours, though I installed the in-dash CD at the same time. The only difficulty was to locate the harness/connector under the dash, which the factory instruction/diagram was useless; I had to call Acura HQ to help me, it was located in the firewall hole where the harnesses come through from the engine compartment. The switch is illuminated and mounts in one of the 4 rectangular knock-outs by the hand brake. Fit and finish looks great and the lights are smaller than PIAA 1000s.

From: Thomas A. Steahr (steahr@eng2.uconn.edu)
I just installed the factory fog light kit in my 95 Integra (mail ordered from MSO Parts for $293.75 + 9.95 S/H). Installation wasn't too bad but did take about 4 hours. The lights come with very good (but not quite excellent) instructions copied out of a Acura service manual. The lights can only be used in conjunction with the low beams and provide a much wider (but not further out) spread of light. They make rain driving in heavy traffic much easier as you have a much better indication of where the side of the road is. Switching to low beams while driving fast on back roads is no longer an exercise in faith and memory as to where you think the road was. The lights are small and fit in the lower part of the grill quite nicely.

Tips for those about to install:
- Look for the "Blue tape 1-pin connector" to connect to the relay harness against the fire wall behind the fuse box. This location is not clear in the instructions.
- Look for the Blue tape 1-pin connector" to connect the light harness next to the washer fluid fill neck.
- Don't use the wire ties in the interior until you have completely run the relay harness. You may need to try several different routes until you figure out what the instructions are trying to say.
- Don't eat a large meal just before doing the installation as you will be spending a long time inverted in the driver's footwell. :)

Chassis #
DC2, Integra

Engine #
B18B  1.8L DOHC      142 HP (US)
B18C  1.8L DOHC VTEC 170 HP (US)
B18C5 1.8L DOHC VTEC 195 HP (US Type-R)